Helpful Tidbits of Inforation

 

Chevrolet donated their Body Builders Chassis Instructions Drawings back in 1987 to the Kettering/GMI Historical Collection in Flint. My notes show they have a 1/2 scale drawing #351398 1927 Top View and #351399 1927 Side View. I am not sure if these drawings were of the One Ton or Light Delivery chassis, or if they have the same for 1928, but the 1927 One Ton Trucks used the same chassis as 1928 anyway. GMI had two blueprints made for me at the Flint Blueprint Co. over 10 years ago for about $35 each of a 1917 Model F chassis (top & side view in 1/2 scale) with the side view hanging on the wall in my living room. Try contacting Bill Holleran, Archivist at 810-762-9890. His email is bhollera@kettering.edu Good Luck and let us know how you make out?

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Can a later model oil pump be used on my 29 . I used a 34 gear style in my 29 and it worked great. The oil    volume was greater as observed at the rocker arms.. it now flows instead of dribbles. The pressure now runs about 35 to 40 at highway speed, where before it barely reached 15 to 20 lbs. The only difficult part 
in the change over was getting the feed line  from the block to the pump to line up I ended up making a new one as the original was about a 16th of an inch to short. Mine has the oblong oil screen instead of the round style which also offered more screen for filtering. The 29 oil pump part number 604506 had an overall length of 7-5/16', the 30-34 standard part number 604507 had an overall length of 7-1/16', While the 33&
34 Master part number 604508 is 7-7/16. All of these were gear type. You may have a problem with the 33/34 master clearing the oil pan with the 1/8' longer overall length, so be aware of that potential problem. 

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RE: Distributor Question
Engine, How do I install a distributor after an engine rebuild

 

  • I have used a procedure for setting timing that I found many years ago in an ancient manual, and it works as good as any timing light I`ve ever used. At first, I tried it as a lark, but it worked so good that I do it all the time now. After you`ve installed the distributor according to the good advice printed here by our partners in travail, make sure that your points are clean and gapped exactly. Then rotate your engine to the exact firing point carefully by hand. Then loosten your distributor and turn it in the direction of the rotor travel until the points close. Place a piece of cigarette paper between the contacts. Rotate it in the opposite direction until the paper just pulls out. Tighten down your distributor, and voila`! Perfect timing. The first several times I did this procedure, I checked it with a timing light and it was perfectly on the mark. I don`t bother to check anymore. I suppose this procedure could be used with a common test lamp instead of paper and be a tiny bit more accurate, but I`ve never noticed. I hope this is helpful, or at least, entertaining.
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