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| Removing Seized Nuts and bolts | |
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Nut
Splitters Removing
rusty nuts and bolts - from your antique vehicle can be a problem.
Nuts which refuse to leave bolts can be removed using a
"nut-splitter" tool or can be split using a sharp chisel. While disassembling my 29
Chevy truck almost every thing was rusted so badly
special measures had to taken to remove numerous bolts. One good tool to
have handy are NUT SPLITTERS. No heat or oil is required just a wrench, generally
no damage is done to the bolt unless you cut into it. Here is a set from
Harbor Freight tools that
work well.
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Applying
Heat
Applying
Heat - to rusty parts can break the bond between nuts and bolts.
Generally you need a hot flame from a acetylene torch to cause enough
expansion quickly to break the bond. Propane hand torches are to slow to
heat parts and lack sufficient flame temperature. If
the problem is a nut, apply heat to the outside of the nut. If you are
struggling with a bolt, heat the area around the bolt. Never ever use
heat if you are working near gas lines.
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Penetrating
Oil
Penetrating
oils - under
names, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, WD40, etc. work to penetrate and loosen frozen nuts and bolts. These products can be found
at hardware and tool supply stores. Spray
a liberal amount of penetrating oil on the
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Screw
Extractors
Screw extractors - are available from Sears ( shown above ) and hardware, tool supply houses (Harbor Freight) from 10 to 80 dollars in sets. Extractors work by the fact that they turn the broken fastener in a counterclockwise direction to unscrew broken bolts and screws. Using a center punch mark and drill a hole down the center of the broken fastener. The extractor and hole size depend on fastener, a guide is usually provided with extractor. To extract fastener the extractor is inserted in the drill hole and turned counter clockwise using a wrench. Left hand drill bits - work in the same way except that they do it in one operation. Using a electric drill that has a reverse switch simply drill the fastener out. As the dill works it way into the fastener it is constantly forcing the fastener to unscrew. This works if the fastener is not lodged to tight and can be easily screwed out. |
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Additional
Notes
After 70 years - of rust and corrosion some bolts will break with minimal applied force. Bolts and nuts which are seized together can be sawed off using a hacksaw or ground off using an angle grinder. These bolts due to age or condition should be replaced and not reused, cheap insurance. A friend of mine damaged his 32 Chevy coup due to broken front wheel bolts that he should have replaced while undergoing restored. If you have an impact gun or driver, use this to try and remove the frozen fastener. The use of impact wrenches to remove, old weakened frozen bolts, from a casting can cause them to break. The only recourse then is to use easy outs or drill and re-tap with a larger size bolt. You can also use a sturdy wrench and hit the end of the wrench with a hammer. Remember, you do not want to snap the head of the fastener off. Corrosion will weaken the metal over time, remember patience is key. Last Resort, after having tried everything and the fastener just won't let go. Your only choice now is to drill out the screw or bolt. Using a center punch and mark the center of the head of the bolt. Drill a small pilot hole down the center of the bolt to at least the depth of the nut plus one quarter of an inch. Then, using a succession of larger drill bits, open up the hole until the bolt falls away. Finally clean the threads using the appropriate sized tap. Hopefully you won't have too many on your restoration project. When replacing damaged nuts and bolts, put an anti-seize compound on the threads so you or someone else will not have to go through this torture in the future. Where practical I replaced most of my bolts with stainless. Screw extractors, left hand drill bits can be obtained on line from many tool sources, such as: |
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